Relax and recharge in a magical manor in Estonia

Glimpse local life of a gone-by era at Koguva village, an ancient heritage fishing village and marina brimming with slow-moving charm. The birthplace of beloved Estonian writer Juhan Smuul and the set for popular and by now cult movies such as Here We Are (‘Siin me Oleme’) and Men Don’t Cry (‘Mehed ei Nuta’), Koguva village is a cultural stunner. In the vicinity find the Muhu Museum which presents a wider view on 19^th-century village culture with replica houses and exhibits of traditional textiles and dolls. Here you can also learn more about the island’s sombre history, from the impact of both Soviet and Nazi power and its isolation from the mainland until 1992, lending the island its lost-in-time quality.

Adding to the distinct magic of Muhu is the award-winning boutique resort and spa known as Pädaste Manor, standing out in the countryside with grand 19^th-century architecture and upscale culinary experiences. Dutchman Martin Breuer and Estonian Imre Sooäär acquired Pädaste Manor in 1995 and have since turned it into – after 25 years of painstaking restoration – one of the foremost hotel resorts in the Baltic countryside; a unique haven of tranquillity and excellence.

“Our team is selected on passion and love for hospitality,” Breuer explains. “A good mix of nationalities and personalities with character and charm.” As for the guests, they are “well-travelled individuals from diverse backgrounds… more like voyagers then tourists. They’re a bit spoiled in the positive sense of the word!” he admits.

Bequeathed by the King of Denmark to an illustrious Baltic German family, this tranquil estate is no stranger to both nobility and creatives. The garden helipad is not the only entrance point, but definitely the most suiting. Alternatively, approach up the juniper-lined gravel path, to view the stately Wes Anderson-style façade, where rustic wood-beamed rooms await, furnished with old-fashioned bathtubs, cosy fur accents and luxury amenities including in-room iPads and PS3s.  “Do not expect gilded mirrors and knee-thick carpets,” Breuer says, “but a refined modesty and understated luxury.” For the ultimate getaway, make a booking for The Private Farm House, a secluded thatched-roof log house featuring a fireplace, library and veranda that overlooks a private garden and orchard.

Out in the manor’s elegant yet airy conservatory, hungry guests can find Alexander Restaurant, one of the finest restaurants in the country. Taste the refined multicourse Nordic menu prepared by Michelin-level Head Chef Stefan Berwanger and Pâtissier Achim Braitsch with artisan ingredients from across Muhu and Pädaste’s own meadows, served alongside classic cocktails and an epic selection of fine wines.

Running from the 18^th-20^th of October in 2019 at Pädaste is Rainbowfest, an exclusive weekend event for gay men hosted by Breuer and Sooäär. Breuer, a long-time gay advocate and founder of Tallinn’s legendary first gay club, Club Angel, now pours his open-minded efforts into Rainbowfest, organising a complete programme of culture, pampering and socialising over three nights. After beginning the days with morning yoga sessions and à la carte breakfasts, venture out to explore Muhu’s UNESCO heritage towns and homo-erotic military art from the soviet era, capping it all off back at the manor with leisurely cocktails in a hot tub setting concluded by piano-led singalongs beside the fireplace.

To stay

Serving guests since 1850 from a decadent 14^th-century Old Town property, Hotel St. Petersbourg is one of the longest-running hotels in Tallinn, and coincidentally one of the best, with original features melding seamlessly with modern design elements and a racy collection of burlesque photography.

To see and do

Just ten minutes from Tallinn’s Old Town lies the hip, slow-paced neighbourhood of Kalamaja, beloved for its colourful architecture and youthful, creative energy, in addition to an ever-growing number of stylish eateries and stores, based in its once-abandoned factories. Nearby is the uber-cool creative hub known as Telliskivi Creative City, home to hip design stores to vintage shops with bustling restaurants throughout. Come on the weekend to see Telliskivi come alive with street performance and pop-up events. Then there’s the rather more old school Balti Jaam Market, a market complex near Baltic Station, where locals and travellers jostle in big crowds to get their hands on second-hand, Soviet-era treasures, freshly roasted coffee and top-notch street food.

For a secretive post sundown experience, Whisper Sister is one of the best bars in Tallinn. Call the number listed on the golden plaque outside the entrance to be invited inside to this 1920s speakeasy-style cocktail bar, featuring a luxurious lounge area as well as booth seating for a private yet stylish rendezvous.